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I’m a Gen Xer who’s been worried about the effects of sun, aging and gravity on my face for a while now. I haven’t opted for Botox or fillers (yet), but I wear sunscreen every day and (try to) remember to moisturize at night. When it comes to skincare products, I’m often at a loss.
My social media feed is filled with influencers pushing products that claim to eliminate wrinkles, dark spots and blotchy complexions, but how can you tell which ones work, which are a waste of money or may even make your skin look worse? The key is knowing the ingredients to look for — the ones proven to help your skin look and feel more youthful.
“Not only patients of various ages but even physicians and dermatologists are overwhelmed by the abundance and increasing number of topical and over-the-counter products,” says Dr. Murad Alam, a professor of dermatology at Northwestern University in Chicago. “Patients are baffled about which ones to use, and it’s becoming very difficult for both patients and dermatologists to figure out which may be most helpful for certain concerns.”
According to a recent study co-authored by Dr. Alam, which examined the effectiveness of more than 300 different skincare ingredients, the top three performing ingredients for each of the following skin conditions, in order, are:
Skin Issue: Acne
Most Effective Ingredients: Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid
Skin Issue: Dark spots
Most Effective Ingredients: Hydroquinone, retinoids, kojic acid
Skin Issue: Dry skin
Most Effective Ingredients: Petrolatum, ceramides, ammonium lactate/hyaluronic acid/urea (three-way tie for third most effective ingredient)
Skin Issue: Fine lines and wrinkles
Most Effective Ingredients: Mineral sunscreen, retinoids, vitamin C
Skin Issue: Redness
Most Effective Ingredients: Mineral sunscreen, sulfacetamide/sulfur, metronidazole
Skin Issue: Oily skin
Most Effective Ingredients: Retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid
Three Essential Ingredients for Healthy Midlife Skin
Even if you don’t have a particular skin issue, as a woman in her 40s or older, there are several ingredients that should be part of your regular skincare regimen, says Dr. Alam — a topical retinoid or over-the-counter retinol. “These are chemicals that have been proven to mitigate and reduce visible signs of aging, including fine lines, textural changes, and color abnormalities,” he says. In short, they slow down age-related changes in your skin.
You probably already know that you should wear sunscreen to protect your skin from harmful ultraviolet light, which causes skin aging. However, not all sunscreens are created equal; mineral formulas are more effective at providing protection from ultraviolet light and are also generally less irritating to the skin than chemical-based ones. Look for sunscreen with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide on the label. “Sunscreen is critical because it reduces overall sun damage, which makes it easier to correct,” says Dr. Alam.
If your skin is dry, you may also benefit from a moisturizer. “It depends on how dry your skin is and how dry your environment is,” explains Dr. Alam. Look for a “bland emollient,” a product that provides moisture to your skin without adding a lot of other ingredients to the mix. (Remember your mom or grandma slathering on Vaseline? That’s a prototypical bland emollient.) Dr. Alam suggests trying several basic moisturizers to determine which works best for you.
There are newer ingredients like growth factors, peptides and exosomes that may be beneficial for your skin, but they’re still relatively new and unproven. “In the social media age we live in, there is always a sense of a ‘secret ingredient’ or that ‘more is better,’” he says. But you needn’t rely on a large suite of products to have more youthful-looking, healthier skin.
“We forget that the skin, especially the facial skin, is a living organ. It basically takes care of itself. But when you bombard it with lots and lots and lots of topical products, it’s quite possible that the applications can overwhelm your skin’s natural ability to take care of itself. And too much of certain ingredients can make your skin worse.”
We can’t turn back time, but taking a less-is-more approach, choosing products with proven ingredients and remembering to use sunscreen every day will help your skin — and you — look healthier and younger. If you still have concerns, ignore the influencers and talk to your dermatologist about what’s best for your skin.
What product do you use regularly on your skin? Would you recommend it? Let us know in the comments below.
Agnes Lee
Follow Article Topics: Beauty