Could This Be The Most Fabulous Overseas Destination?

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“All roads lead to Rome” is a medieval proverb, but it took me a while to reach the Eternal City. My husband had been there, but I needed to see Roma firsthand. My only view had been Fellini’s La Dolce Vita, meaning “sweet life.”

Rome is historical, hypnotic and unlike any European city. Even for a New Yorker like me, it can be challenging and overwhelming, but there are tips to help. I went in May before the steamy summer began. September through early November is an ideal time to experience the sweet life.

Get Grounded

The Tiber River divides Rome with Vatican City and ivy-draped Trastevere to the west and the historic center to the east. Remains of the Aurelian Wall, built in 275 AD to fortify the city from invasion, pop up everywhere.

The busiest attractions are Piazza Navona, the Colosseum, Roman Forum, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. The capital of Italy has nearly 3 million residents; 35 million tourists visited in 2023, second only to Paris. One minute, you’re buying a drink at a tabacci — a convenience store that sells snacks to postage stamps — and suddenly, the massive 2,000-year-old monumental Colosseum emerges out of nowhere.

Many travelers feel compelled to stay in the Centro Storico. I prefer Trastevere, or Monti. Most attractions are a 10-to-30-minute stunning stroll. Taxis can be hard to find at night, but there are plenty of buses and two Metro lines. Why only two? Every time they dig to forge new tunnels, ruins get in the way!

The Top Two Visited Sites

Vatican City is its own country, home to the Pope and bursting with ancient Roman masterpieces, Renaissance frescoes and Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel fresco. Closed Sundays, the best days are Tuesday, Thursday or Friday: early morning or after 4 p.m. Dress codes are enforced. Keep your shoulders and knees covered.

Advance tickets are a must to skip the line. Purchase them on their official website or opt for a tour company, such as Context or The Roman Guy. Wear comfortable shoes. I never took off my sneakers in my entire stay due to all the huge, uneven cobblestones.

The Colosseum is best early or late, and you can book 30 days in advance through Coopculture.it. Built in AD 80 on six acres, this monumental structure hosted gladiator contests for audiences of up to 50,000. Rick Steves’ free audio guide makes this feat of construction come alive.

Espresso, Gelato and Pasta Trifecta

Caffè (espresso) is how Romans start their day. Natives never drink cappuccinos after 11 a.m. Prices are cheaper if you stand at the counter. The honor system means you pay when you leave. Try a refreshing shakerato: espresso, ice and milk mixed in a martini shaker.

For lunch, grab an oblong pizza where slices are cut and weighed for payment. My favorites are Roscioli near Campo de’ Fiori and CasaManco in the Testaccio market.

Gelato is made fresh and consumed within 24 hours. I bookmarked a dozen places, but went five days in a row to Otaleg, a tiny spot you’d pass if you blink. Other recommendations: Come il Latte, Fior di Luna and Gelateria dei Gracchi.

When it comes to pasta, savor Rome’s three famous creations: cacio e pepe, rigatoni amatriciana and carbonara. Innumerable options include Tavernaccia da Roma, Osteria La Gensola and Piatto Romano. Casa Bleve is more serene and formal, set in a noble 1500s palace with an extensive wine cellar.

Tap water is safe, as Romans built aqueducts 2,000 years ago. You can refill water bottles at street fountains.

Churches and Art

There are nearly 1,000 churches. Step into any of them and you’ll see 16^th- and 17^th-century Baroque masterpieces by Bernini and Caravaggio in situ (in their original place). Book tickets 60 days in advance for Galleria Borghese, a 17^th-century villa filled with stunning sculptures, many conveying mythological stories.

Shopping

Rome is known for handcrafted jewelry, ceramics, leather goods and high-end fashion. Vintage stores abound. Atelier di Marloes Mandaat is a tiny boutique where the designer uses natural materials for clothing, handbags, and jewelry. My search for a wallet culminated near the Pantheon at Mancini Leather, where four generations have been making leather accessories named for Roman gods since 1918.

I love foreign grocery stores where I can buy unusual pasta, vacuum-sealed Parmesan and olive oil — as much as I can carry home.

Traveling Solo

Novelist Amanda Harris-Carter, who has taken numerous trips by herself, looks for an available bar seat in a restaurant or café. Bartenders often chat with customers, so fun conversations are common.

Rome’s plethora of casual trattorias attracts solo diners — from tourists to locals. Tables are close together, and it’s easy to chat with a neighbor.

Joining tours of major sites creates a bond between the group and the guide. You may make connections that extend afterward to a drink or dinner.

Off the Beaten Track

Ride 11.5 kilometers to Ciampino on a trail dotted with ancient ruins. Start in the Appia Antica Park Office, which is easily reached by taxi. Pack a picnic for this unique family activity and rent bikes at Via Appia Antica 42. All kinds are available, but e-bikes might be easier on these bumpy roads. Take a break from the intensity of Rome’s fast pace, speeding cars and darting motorcycles for a peaceful day outside the Roman Aurelian walls and back in time.

How many of you have visited Rome? What was your favorite part? Let us know in the comments below.